What to Eat and Drink in France, Region by Region

France rewards eating as much as looking. The country that gives you the architecture of Paris and the beaches of the Côte d'Azur also changes its specialities every few hours of driving, and its wine list changes with the landscape. I have never once walked past the fruit tarts in Strasbourg without buying one, and I think that is the right way to travel here.

What follows is a short tour by region — the dishes and drinks I would seek out with a fortnight and a healthy appetite.

Alsace-Lorraine: two cuisines in one region

Alsace sits close to the German border, and the history of the place shows in its buildings, its culture and, most clearly, its food. Strasbourg, the region's main city, is a bus ride from German towns such as Heidelberg and Karlsruhe, which makes it an easy addition to a German trip. Order tarte flambée — Flammkuchen on the German side — with spaetzle, quiche Lorraine and choucroute, and drink the local beer as well as the wine. Fruit tarts are everywhere, and I have yet to resist one.

The Lorraine half has its own sweet claim: the almond macaroons called Macarons de Nancy, from the town of Nancy. Ladurée, the Parisian confectioner, built its richer macaron on the back of the Nancy original's success.

Loire Valley: delicate fish, rich meat and goat's cheese

The Loire covers both ends of the gastronomic scale. At the light end, zander or pike is served with a white wine sauce enriched with semi-salted butter, food for anyone with delicate taste buds. At the other end are rich meat dishes that sit happily beside Muscadet.

Then there is Crottin de Chavignol, a small goat's cheese with a tender centre and a ripened rind. It is at its best with Sancerre, the Sauvignon Blanc-based white from the same stretch of valley. Cheese and wine together, with a logic behind the pairing.

Bordeaux: seafood alongside the famous reds

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot made Bordeaux's name, but wine is only half the story. Fish and seafood run right through the local cooking, oysters and sole from Arcachon in particular. Meat eaters should look for Bazadais rib of beef with Sauternes, or Pauillac lamb blanquette.

Burgundy: mustard, snails and gingerbread

Burgundy's kitchen owes its character to its red, white and rosé wines, with onions, garlic and shallots doing much of the seasoning. Dijon mustard is the signature condiment, and few dishes feel complete without it. The choice runs from Morvan-style crapiaux — thick crêpes made with pork fatback — to Burgundy-style snails, eggs meurette and Dijon gingerbread, so meat eaters and vegetarians are both catered for.

Champagne: worth visiting for the food, too

Champagne's association with luxury has arguably done its cooking no favours: people think of the bubbles and stop there. That is a mistake. Reims-style pâté, Sainte-Menehould pigs' trotters and a Champagne-style stew are all full of flavour, and anyone who cares about cheese or has a sweet tooth has a reason to head for the region east of the Ile-de-France.

Questions I am asked about eating in France

Which region suits a short trip? Alsace, because Strasbourg is close to several German cities by bus and several of the country's best-known dishes appear on one menu.

What single cheese should I try? Crottin de Chavignol, ordered with a glass of Sancerre.

Is Bordeaux only about red wine? No. The oysters and sole of Arcachon are as much a part of the region as Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wherever you end up, the baguettes will be warm and the pastries fresh, which is reason enough to plan a trip around meals rather than monuments. If you are still choosing a destination, 31 best places to visit in France and things to do in Provence are good places to start.

Cheese detail via Tourism Sauldre. Champagne photograph by dpotera via Flickr.