Saint Valentine's Hometown: Terni in Umbria

Every February the world fills with hearts, restaurant offers and advertisements, and most of us never ask where any of it came from. Valentine's Day takes its name from Saint Valentine, or San Valentino, who was martyred on 14 February in the year 269. The stories about his life are tangled and not entirely consistent. What did surprise me is that he was born in Terni, a small town in Umbria, and is said to have been its bishop before becoming a clergyman in Rome. There is also a Saint Valentine described as the patron saint of epilepsy, and whether that is the same man or a different one is still debated.

I wanted to know what the town makes of all this, so I asked Andreas, who is from Terni, to explain the place in his own words. His answers are below.

Where is Terni, and what kind of town is it?

Terni sits in Umbria, in central Italy. It has been in the news for wanting a partner city in the United States. Andreas describes an economy built mainly on steel, with the works now owned by the German group Thyssenkrupp, and a history that is heavier than most visitors expect.

Weapons were once a thriving industry here, which is why the town was bombed by the Americans during the Second World War. Most of the people Andreas grew up with have a grandparent with a story that begins, 'the day the bomb fell and I survived'. Much of Terni was rebuilt afterwards. He also offered a piece of grim trivia: the gun used to kill Kennedy was made in Terni.

What should a visitor see first?

The answer is the Marmore falls, and it is not a modest one. The Cascata delle Marmore is among the tallest artificial waterfalls in the world. The Romans created it on the orders of the consul Manius Curius Dentatus, to clear the swamps around the river. You can even go canoeing beside the falls, which must be one of the more memorable ways to spend an afternoon in Umbria.

The falls photograph here is by tjshot on Flickr, and it gives a fair idea of the scale.

What about Roman Terni?

The area is full of Roman remains. The best known is Carsulae, an ancient Roman town that was probably destroyed by an earthquake. Excavation is still going on there, which makes a visit feel less like a museum and more like watching a site being pieced together.

Beyond the ruins, the countryside is scattered with small villages, and several of them appear on Italy's list of the most beautiful villages. That is a good excuse to drive without a fixed plan for a day.

What happens in Terni on 14 February?

There is a procession every year, starting at the small church of Saint Valentine and finishing at the main cathedral of Terni, then returning the way it came. The bishop celebrates a special mass. A second mass is held on the day itself in the saint's church, and outside it a small fair runs through the day with stalls and street food, closing with fireworks.

Across the surrounding week the town holds Cioccolentino, a programme of chocolate and love-themed events. In earlier years there was also a flash mob in one of the main squares: a collective kiss, with couples gathering to take part. I like that the town marks the day with both a religious procession and a chocolate festival, without seeming to find the combination odd.

Should you go?

If you are travelling in Italy and want somewhere with a strange and specific history, scenery that rewards a detour, and a reason to visit in the middle of February, Umbria is worth your time. Terni is not the Italy of postcards, and it is more interesting for that.

More on Italy

If you are planning a wider trip, these may help: beautiful Italian destinations, souvenirs worth bringing home, what to eat in Venice, Venice beyond the gondolas, Florence for a foodie, Florence on foot, what I wish I had known before moving to Italy and a glimpse of Milan.

Stay curious, and if you make it to Terni in February, tell me what the fireworks are like.